At some point in history, the grapes being grown in Argentina that they called Torrontés were thought to be the same Torrontés variety grown in Galicia, Spain (the region famous for Albariño). However, as Maury used to say, we have determined that was a lie. Well, not really a lie; they just didn't know.
Through DNA profiling, we have discovered that Argentina's Torrontés is a crossing of the Mission grape (very popular with missionaries way back in the day, thus the name) and Muscat of Alexandria (a member of the ancient Moscato family that makes dry white wines), and has no relation to the Torrontés of Spain.
(This article was written for GrapeBunch, our weekly wine periodical. Click here to read the original!)
There are three different types of Argentina's Torrontés: Torrontés Riojano (the most common), Torrontés Sanjuanino, and Torrontés Mendocino. DNA profiling, again, has shown that these three Torrontés' are closely related and all crossings of the same varieties, but are genetically different enough to be distinct grape varieties of their very own. Rather than being different clones of each other, they're all crossings of Mission and Muscat of Alexandria from a different time and/or place.
Torrontés, when all three varieties are combined, is the most widely planted white grape in Argentina. The different varieties have found cozy homes for themselves within different provinces, their attributes being the best for that region's climate and terroir. Torrontés Riojano in La Rioja and Salta in northern Argentina, Torrontés Sanjuanino in San Juan (just south of La Rioja), and Torrontés Mendocino in Rio Negro right in the middle of Argentina.
There is no requirement or expectation to name which kind of Torrontés was used, so you'll usually see it labeled as just Torrontés.
So what is Torrontés like? First I should warn not to be fooled by the nose of Torrontés! The candied fruits that you may smell could make it seem like it's a sweet wine, but it is indeed pretty darn dry on the palate. It's just very loud and expressive on the nose, bosting that Moscato family heritage. It's light to medium bodied with medium acidity, and amoras and flavors of peaches, lemon, citrus zest, rose petal, jasmine, and honey.
Torrontés is such a fun wine to explore when you're expanding your wine experience to different wines you haven't tried yet. It's so fresh and delicious, and worth checking out! Pair it with spicy Thai food, grilled fish, or glazed tofu.
Crisp, refreshing and aromatic, Crios Torrontés from Velle de Uco in Argentina has a bouquet of citrus fruits, passion fruit, lychee and white flowers. A lively acidity, a hint of creaminess and a long, mineral finish add depth and balance to the palate. Pairing: Spicy Thai food.
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