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I've said it plenty of times before here on GrapeBunch, and I'll say it again now: If I had to drink just one wine varietal for the rest of my life, it would be Merlot. It can be earthy or fruity, lush or tannic, full or medium bodied. And it’s also very versatile with food. I think it's about time that we feature this noble grape.
The very first written record of the Merlot grape that we have is from 1784, when a Bordeaux official proclaimed a wine called Merlau as one of the best in the Libournais region (part of the Bordeaux Right Bank). After that, we have an article about Bordeaux wine from 1824 where it was now spelled as Merlot. This article even states that the grape is named after the blackbirds (mirlo/merlau/merle) that would eat the grapes when they ripened, and even have a similar blue and black coloring to the Merlot grapes themselves.
(This article was written for GrapeBunch, our weekly wine periodical. Click here to read the original!)
It wouldn't be until 1996 that we would know the biological parents of Merlot, when DNA testing found that it's the child of Cabernet Franc and a mysterious unknown grape (later revealed to be Magdeleine Noire des Charentes, which was believed to be extinct before hidden vines were discovered in 2009). This makes Merlot half brothers with Malbec (Magdeleine Noire des Charentes and Prunelard) and Cabernet Sauvignon (Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc).
Merlot loves the Right Bank of Bordeaux, with its cooling muddy soil, while Cabernet Sauvignon loves digging its roots into the gravely soil on the Left Bank. So naturally, Merlot established itself as the main grape in the red wines of the Right Bank, while Cabernet Sauvignon did the same on the Left Bank. Some of the world famous Right Bank Chateaux are Chateau Cheval Blanc, Petrus, Chateau Angélus, Chateau Pavie, and Chateau Lafleur.
Merlot spread throughout France and today it is the most planted grape in the country. It also spread across the world, and is now the #2 top planted grape in the world, behind Cabernet Sauvignon. California, of course, makes great Merlot, and Merlot from Chile is an excellent deal for price vs quality. But, in my opinion, Washington State Merlot is really where it's at. There is something very special about that juice.
Merlot can be easily confused with Cabernet Sauvignon when tasted blind, but it's generally more laid back and less astringent than its half brother. As previously stated, Merlot can be earthy or fruity, lush or tannic, full or medium bodied depending on where it's grown and the winemaker. But the principal profile of Merlot is medium to full bodied, medium to high tannin, and medium acidity, with flavors of cherry, plum, chocolate, and vanilla. Some can be darker and spicier with blackberry, blueberry, and cinnamon.
Of course we have to touch a little bit on "The Sideways Effect". Once upon a time, Merlot was the most popular wine varietal on the US market... until the movie Sideways became a hit in 2004. The main character Miles had a line saying "I am not drinking any Merlot!" and suddenly the varietal's popularity came crashing down, while the popularity of Pinot Noir (his favorite) shot way up right through the roof.
However, in the very beginning of the movie, Miles states that he loves all varietals but doesn't like the over-extracted California Chardonnays that were popular then. At this time, the demand for Merlot was so high that it was over-cropped and over-yielded. Most affordable Merlot's were flabby and characterless. Miles would know what kind of Merlot was being served in a 2004 Central Coast wine bar. (By the way, in the book it's explained that his distaste of Merlot stems from a past personal experience.)
In hindsight, "The Sideways Effect" was probably the best thing to happen to Merlot. It was uprooted in vineyards where it didn't belong and replaced with other varieties better suited for that spot. The focus was now on making good Merlot, not just any Merlot. Now the yields are lower and it's planted in better locations for its needs. And I truly believe that right now it produces the best quality red wine in the $9-$15 price range, by far!
J. Lohr Los Osos Merlot displays black plum, black currant, violet, baking spices, and toasted pastry. Malbec in the blend contributes notes of pomegranate and hibiscus flower and brings juiciness to the palate, while Cabernet Franc adds layers of cocoa and peppery spice. Pairing: Grilled sausage, vegetable shish kebob, or a dish of creamy spinach and tomato tortellini.
Joey Casco
Beverage Marketer
Certified Specialist of Wine
Certified Specialist of Spirits
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